Saturday, 24 March 2012

Kota Kinabalu - Day 3

The last day of Neko's travelogue to Kota Kinabalu.

13 Jan 2012 

8.00 am

It's our final day in Kota Kinabalu, and we're going to end it with a bang by going to the beautiful islands in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park.


I found this lovely map (from this very informative website) which shows the five islands making up the world-famous marine park. Our first stop will be Sapi Island, and later on to Manukan Island. It's a pity we're going home later this evening, that we'll be missing out on the other islands.

To travel to the park, there are two routes to take. Our guide of the day, Ah Fatt (our guide from day one), takes us on the slightly lavish route via the Sutera Harbour.


Sutera Harbour, only a ten-minute drive from the city centre, is a very grand-looking resort that caters to the rich. Private yachts dot the harbour, each more extravagant than the next.

We board our speedboat, and in just 20 minutes reach the first island on the itinerary, Sapi Island.


8.45 am

Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is famous for the pristine beaches and diverse marine life. Some say it's even more stunning than the east coast of Semenanjung. While both are situated in the same South China Sea, probably the biggest difference is that the islands in the east coast are suffering from over-exploitation, while the islands in Sabah have only recently been opened to tourists, and thus still retain most natural marine life.


People weren't kidding when they say the shores are swarming with fish. Look at the number of fish swimming around the jetty! If I have a wide angle camera, I'll bet I can get a picture of huge masses of black in the water.




I can't wait to swim with the fishes! Not in the metaphorical sense, of course. For the safety of the guests, the officials have separated the shallow parts with the deeper parts. Further outside is the big blue ocean, which only certified divers are allowed to go.

I'm happy with just snorkelling in the shallow parts though. The tour operators provide everyone with snorkelling goggles and a life jacket. There are some corals and fishes of different shapes and sizes, enough to keep me happy. But my dad, the adventurous one, decides to drag me out to the slightly deeper end. I think he's more excited than I am.

In the deeper end, the species are more varied and have nicer colours. I even saw a fish as large as 50 cm! Soft corals are not as abundant as hard corals, but if I remember correctly, the numbers are far more than the soft corals in the east coast of Semenanjung. I saw clownfish going in and out of anemones, a species of triggerfish picking at other smaller fish, and hard corals of vivid neon green. If I go for scuba diving, I'll be guaranteed to see even more species, the ones we always saw in pictures and documentaries.

And then I got bit on the knees by a fish. Another bit my dad's toe. Lesson learnt: no dallying in the waters. Just keep swimming, swimming, swimming...

The sun is getting hotter as time approaches noon. I get out of the water into the scorching sand, as I hopped my way back to the shades of the trees. Here, the tour operators have set up tables and chairs, which we can enjoy our lunch very soon.


 12.00 pm

The nice thing about island-hopping in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, is the facilities and services provided throughout. As I make my way to the public bathroom for a simple shower, I pass workers busy barbecuing our lunch. I hear the buffet spread is scrumptious. I spy fish, hotdogs, cabbages, corn, and - wait a minute - mutton and crab! My absolute favorites!


I'm not a picky eater. You don't see me doing food reviews (Puta does that). These are but simple meals that you can find in most BBQ spread. But for hungry ol' me, it's like eating a slice of heaven, coupled with soft sands beneath my feet and wide shady trees above me.

If you're reluctant to part with almost RM 60 per person for the BBQ lunch (probably cheaper if you take a package), you can also order simple mamak goreng from a shop there. Shouldn't be more than RM 10 per person.


Another interesting sight on the island is these giant monitor lizards. I swear, they look absolutely like Komodo dragons. The workers there erected fences that only partially stopped their advance towards the grilled chicken wings or whatever meat they're cooking. They're actually free to roam around the island, and tourists enjoy getting up-close as possible to take pictures. These huge lizards, ranging from 3 to 5 feet, are quite tame, but I do wonder if they bite.

1.00 pm

We're on a tight schedule. After eating our lunch, we're ushered off to Manukan Island.




This is an island that is certainly more developed than the other neighbouring islands. There's an eatery...


...and a resort, complete with a bar, a swimming pool, and other modern facilities you expect to find in a beach resort!


This is slightly out of my expectation. The place looks like the other islands I visited, places like Pulau Redang, Pulau Lang Tengah, Pulau Besar etc. They provide accommodation, and guests can wake up early to catch the sunrise.


The signboard cracked me up.


Tourist attraction. It's certainly caught my attention.

Both Sapi and Manukan Island provide water activities with a fee. Some of the other islands do too, and some require visitors to pay a small conservation fee to continue protecting the area. Your tour agent should help you with these menial tasks so you can just relax and enjoy the entire trip.


1:30 pm


It's a shame we have to leave so quickly. By the jetty, I can look over to Pulau Sulug.


After a quick speedboat ride back to the mainland, we're off to shopping for souvenirs. In a span of two hours, we manage to scour for seafood, chocolate, and coffee.

If you're planning to purchase some seafood all the way back to Semenanjung, better check the price. Mom thinks there's not really a difference compared with KL, so we wonder if the upped price is because of the layers and layers of protection, served to keep the seafood fresh until it reaches your fridge safely.

Do you know that the state of Sabah produces the most cocoa in Malaysia? We're taken to a chocolate boutique that sells chocolates from any possible flavour available. The chilli chocolate is fiery to the tongue, while chocolate with an actual cocoa bean in it is stimulating. A little bitter, but really interesting. Fruit-flavoured chocolates include oranges, strawberries, to jackfruit and durians.

Coffee is so popular in Malaysia, that in so many cities, the locals call their own coffee "The Best in Malaysia". In a little shop somewhere in Kota Kinabalu, we browse what the Kota Kinabalu people call their pride. Flavours range from the popular, such as tiramisu, hazelnut etc, to the highly acquired taste, such as coconut and durian.

Are we Malaysians a little too in love with the pungent King of the Fruits, that we have to produce durian-flavoured this and that?

5:00 pm

We're already at the airport, and our flight is ready to take us back to Kuala Lumpur.

Three days is too short for a trip to Kota Kinabalu. We've barely even scratched the surface of the activities that is offered in the city. We haven't gone white-water rafting, we haven't climbed Mount Kinabalu, we haven't been to Pulau Tiga (Survivor Island).

But that's just given us another reason to revisit some time soon.


Tuesday, 20 March 2012

Kota Kinabalu - Day 1

Neko and family went on a trip to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, so I'd thought to write a travelogue based on my experiences there.

10 Jan 2012

Apart from Mount Kinabalu, Kadazans, and the forests, there's not much I know about Sabah. I've signed my parents and me up for tour packages, which at least means we can just sit back and enjoy the trip.

Looking forward to the trip to The Land Below the Wind.

11 Jan 2012

3.00 pm
If there's one thing we dislike about AirAsia, it's the endless payments. But without AirAsia, we'd probably not get the chance to have holidays like this. After 2.5 hours of flying, we've touched down at Kota Kinabalu International Airport.

Meeting with us is our tour guide of the day, Ah Fatt. We have a hectic schedule, as Ah Fatt explain to us when we got into his van. And what a van it is! It can easily carry 15 people, and still be spacious. Made in China, apparently.

We're headed for Klias wetlands, where the red mangroves grow, and it is there that the famed proboscis monkeys can be found. The car ride takes about 2 hours.

Photo Credit : Google

These funny-looking monkeys have the biggest nose of all, and an incredibly round pot-belly, thus gaining themselves the humorous Malay name of monyet belanda (Dutch monkey), as they remind the locals of the weird people who came from the sea to their shores.

4.30 pm


The tour operators have everything arranged! We are invited for a bit of morsel as they prepare for our trip.

Taking us along the boat trip is a lady tour guide who is very knowledgeable about the animals living in the mangroves. From the proboscis monkeys to water monitors, her keen eyes spot out every critter moving among the foliage for our viewing pleasure.

 According to her, proboscis monkeys can be found on these trees : those with copper-colored leaves on the left, and the balding ones on the right. The bald ones will always be bald because the monkeys eat the newly-sprouted leaves. The poor leaves never had a chance! Can you see the monkey in the tree?


Really, we have to hand it to her. The monkeys generally stay far away from humans, and it takes a pair of really sharp eyes to see them frolicking among the trees. With my (not really fantastic) camera optical zoom fully utilized, this is the best I can get. Can you see a monkey in the picture? (It's at the dead-centre).

It's times like these that I really envy people with really cool cameras. This dude sitting in front of me can actually take a picture of the monkeys as if they are sitting right in front of him. Ugh, DSLRs.

Well, at least this water monitor makes me happy. Its decision to have a last-hour sun-bathing session near the water edge has blessed me with this, dare I say it, quite nice photo.


And the sunset! I mean, isn't it beautiful?

6.00 pm

Wow, who turned out the lights? Barely 7 pm and the sun's already set! Oh, I forgot. Geographically, Sabah is an hour faster than Kuala Lumpur. Dinner and rest comes early in Kota Kinabalu.


Dinner is at the same place where we had afternoon tea earlier. During dinner, Ah Fatt (our tour guide) puts this strange-looking fruit on our table and pronounces proudly that this is a tarap fruit. He's quite proud of the fact that the trees only grow on the soil of Sabah, and efforts to plant them in Semenanjung haven't bore fruit (pun fully intended).

On the outside, a tarap fruit reminds people of a blunt durian. I half-imagine it looks like those shoes that purportedly massages your foot while you walk. The inside, however, looks and feels like wantan, and a little like mangosteen. Taste-wise, I can't really make up my mind. Some say it smells like cempedak.

7.00 pm

After dinner, we are ushered onto the boats again, this time to view the fireflies on the same riverbank.

From what I see (and hear from the guide's explanation), the fireflies in Klias consist of 2mm and 4mm strains, and they flash their lights in sync. I went to see fireflies in Kuala Selangor many years ago, and they were gorgeous. I don't remember most of the details, as it was a long time ago. However, not long ago I went to see them in Kuantan, and I remember most details. The ones in Kuantan are the 4mm variety, and they don't blink in sync.

If I have to compare, I'd say the tour in Kuantan was far more informative and entertaining, as the guide explained a lot before the boat ride, and he actually has a trick in attracting the bugs over to our boats. This one in Klias is a little disappointing because there are far less fireflies as I had expected, and it is a very short ride, only half an hour.

7.30 pm

We've ended the Klias experience, and is headed back to our hotel. I can't help but to notice that KK people drive quite sloooow. Luckily our guide keeps an admirable 80 km/hr on the long stretch of road leading back to the city. But still, it's enough to almost drive me crazy, as I'm used to flying over 100 km/hr back in KL.

And weirdly, I have not heard a car honk the whole day. I marvel at their self-control. KL people honk like crazy people.

9.00 pm

We have arrived at a quaint shop lot hotel in Tanjung Aru. Everything is nice, except that there is no running water in our room. A quick call to the lobby reveals that KK is experiencing water disruption for the day. Apparently it's such a common occurrence in KK that the locals just accept it as it is.

For us though, it was tough having to go to bed feeling sticky and smelly.
So ends day 1. Day 2 will be updated soon.